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Cross stitch, Needlework and Embroidery Glossary: Aida to Astrakhan stitch

A comprehensive illustrated glossary of cross stitch, embroidery and needlework. Clear definitions and working diagrams. Includes cross stitch, embroidery, tapestry, blackwork, and goldwork.

Click thumbnails to enlarge.

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A

Aida

An evenweave fabric with intersecting thread groups which form clearly recognisable holes for cross stitch. It was invented by Zweigart in 1908 and sizes range from 6 count to 18 count, 24.5 to 70 threads per 10 cms.
6 count is 2.45 threads per cm
7 count is 2.8 threads per cm
8 count is 3.25 threads per cm
10 count is 4 threads per cm
11 count is 4.35 threads per cm
14 count is 5.4 threads per cm
16 count is 6.4 threads per cm
18 count is 7 threads per cm.
See also Fabric count

Algerian eye stitch

A counted thread stitch used in drawn fabric work.Algerian eye stitch - click to enlarge

This consists of eight stitches worked from the same centre. It is usually worked in diagonal rows as it is a very open stitch.

Start with top right diagonal stitch, work to centre and then bring needle out again at top to work vertical stitch to centre. Continue round star in this way.

Also known as star eyelet stitch.Algerian eye stitch - click to enlarge

This can also be worked over 8 threads clockwise as shown when there will be sixteen stitches in total.

See also Drawn fabric work, Star eyelet stitch

Algerian Filling stitch

A counted thread stitch Algerian Filling stitch - click to enlarge

. This consists of blocks of three satin stitches over four threads, followed by another block started two threads higher as shown. A variation is Algerian filling stitch with bar where a horizontal stitch is added at the base of each block either in the same thread or a contrasting shade or texture.

See also Satin stitch

Algerian plaited stitch

A counted thread stitch. Algerian plaited stitch - click to enlarge

Working from left bring needle through and across three threads to the right and four down, then out two to the left and up across the first stitch, three to the right and four up, through and back left under two vertical threads.

Continue in this way as shown with the next row being worked directly above previous row.


Alisia`s Lace stitch

A counted thread stitch Alisia`s Lace stitch - click to enlarge

Start this stitch at the lower right hand corner of the area to be filled and work a row of basketweave tent stitch diagonally up to the top of the area. Then work backstitch from top right to bottom left as shown below the row of basketweave tent stitch. Continue working basketweave tent stitch upwards and backstitch downwards until the area is filled.
A very lacy stitch can be achieved by worked over two intersections instead of one.

See also Backstitch, Basketweave tent stitch

Alternating cross stitch

A counted thread stitch, a combination of cross stitch and oblong cross stitch. Alternating cross stitch - click to enlarge

Work from left to right, make small cross over two thread square and oblong cross over 6 threads vertically and two threads horizontally.
Alternate crosses on next row as shown.

Also known as double stitch.

See also Cross stitch, Double stitch, Oblong cross stitch

Antwerp edging stitch

A free embroidery stitch used to edge hemmed fabric. Antwerp edging stitch - click to enlarge

Bring thread through from back of fabric and work a buttonhole stitch loosely pass needle behind loop of stitch and over working thread as shown in diagram.

It can be spaced out to make a lacy edging or worked close together. More rows can be made working over loops of previous rows.

Also known as knot stitch.

See also Buttonhole stitch, Knot stitch

Appliqué

A technique where fabric shapes are added to a background to give bold designs or textured designs.

In raw edge appliqué banding stitches such as buttonhole, herringbone, couching, trailing, french knots, coral, feather, zigzag chain and open chain stitch are used if working by hand.
There is also reverse appliqué where the top fabric is cut to reveal the fabric or fabrics below.

See also Buttonhole stitch, Coral stitch, Couching, Feather stitch, French knot, Herringbone stitch, Open chain stitch, Trailing stitch, Zigzag cable chain stitch

Applying finished needlepoint to fabric

A method of applying needlepoint to fabric used in stump work which could be used to add worked canvas panels to fabric cushions. Applying finished needlepoint to fabric - click to enlarge

Unravel the raw edges around the finished needlepoint so that single threads appear on all sides as shown. Pin and baste the needle point in position on the background material. With a large eyed needle take each thread through to the reverse side of the fabric. Turn to the reverse side and knot the needlepoint threads together in pairs pulling so that the canvas is held firmly in place. Turn to the right side again and outline the canvas with a edging stitch.

In the diagram stem stitch is shown on side A, couching at B, a couched cord at C and no edging at D.

See also Canvas, Couching, Couching cords, Needlepoint, Stem stitch, Stump work

Arrow or arrowhead stitch

A free embroidery stitch or a counted thread stitch. Arrow or arrowhead stitch - click to enlarge

In free embroidery stitches are worked at right angles to one another. The usual method is to work from left to right with slanting stitches, making two stitches on the wrong side on the upward movement. The same effect is obtained by working two parallel rows of backstitches on the wrong side of the work, with the zigzag on the right side; or by working one row of stitches, filling in on the return journey The stitch may be worked also in pairs or vertically. Arrow or arrowhead stitch - click to enlarge

In counted thread three vertical straight stitches are worked over four threads of the fabric and pulled tightly to one side with a small horizontal stitch. It can be used for filling large areas and if there are any gaps at the edges these can be filled in with tent stitch.

See also Tent stitch

Arrowhead stitch

A counted thread stitch Arrowhead stitch - click to enlarge

A group of four diagonal stitches are worked over 1,2, 3 and 4 intersections of fabric to form a triangle. Six tent stitches are worked to complete the pattern and form a square.

See also Tent stitch

Assisi Work

A style of counted thread embroidery using two colours of thread on a white or natural background. The motifs are unworked but are outlined in double running stitch, the background is filled in with cross stitch.Assisi Work - click to enlarge
See also Cross stitch, Double running stitch

Astrakhan stitch

A counted thread stitch which gives a tufted carpet effect.Astrakhan stitch - click to enlarge

Work a stitch diagonally across two intersections, make a second stitch in the same place but leave a loop of thread. A knitting needle can be used to gauge the length of the loop. Then complete the cross and bring needle out again down and to the right across two intersections ready to start the next stitch.

After all the rows are complete, cut loops and trim evenly.

Also known as velvet stitch.

See also Velvet stitch

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